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Installing a professional composting toilet system may seem like a daunting task, but for most homeowners with basic tools and skills, it can easily be accomplished as a DIY project. In this article, we’ll cover five important things you should know, or at least take into consideration, before you begin installing a composting toilet in your home.Always begin by reading the instructions. This may seem pretty obvious, but it is amazing how many people will begin a project of this magnitude without having even opened the instruction manual. Don’t make this mistake; take the time to thoroughly read the instructions before you begin.Check with your local officials about building codes. The purpose of this step is to make sure your composting toilet will meet local building regulations. If you live in a city or county that hasn’t yet added composting toilets to its list of approved fixtures, don’t worry. It’s usually fairly easy to get them approved. Take copies of the product instruction manual and all testing information and product certifications to your local building department. They’ll usually require a few weeks to review the information, and then you should have your approval.All composting toilets will require some type of venting system to operate without odor. Installing the vent stack usually means that you’ll have to run some lengths of PVC pipe up and out of the roofline of your house. (Important note: If you have purchased a unit that does not have any type of vent, I would strongly encourage you to contact the manufacturer and inquire how the unit maintains odorless operation. I have yet to encounter a vent-free composting toilet that doesn’t smell.)Depending on the type of system you have, you may need to provide some water hookup to the toilet. If this is the case, and you are installing in a building that does not have access to running water, you may be able to use gravity fed water from a roof tank, or possibly even a bucket of water in the wintertime when the roof tank freezes. This is another important topic you should explore with the manufacturer prior to installation.Many composting toilet systems also require some type of drain hookup. The reason for this is because the evaporating capacity of the toilet can vary. For example, if you have purchased an electric unit, it probably relies of some type of heater and/or fan to evaporate excess liquid. If the electricity goes out for any extended period of time, you would have a problem if your safety drain were not hooked up. If you have access to a city sewer, this is usually the easiest and best option for the drain. Alternatively, you could use an old septic tank, leach field, or holding tank. Whatever you choose, just make sure that your drain hookup is in compliance with your local building codes and regulations.Once you’ve taken these five steps into consideration, you will be far more knowledgeable and better prepared to begin installation. Remember, a smooth and easy installation always depends on good preparation and proper planning. And if you encounter problems during installation, don’t hesitate to call the manufacturer or retailer who sold you the system; as they have trained professionals who are ready to assist you with any questions or troubleshooting. With a little time and patience, you’ll be well on your way to having your new composting toilet installed.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
For more information on composting toilet installation, visit the Compost Toilet Store at http://www.composting-toilet-store.com/Build_A_Composting_Toilet_s/43.htm
{bigcontentsearch|100|campaign}{bingnews|100|campaign}{indeed|100|campaign}How to Fix a Toilet – Fill Valve Replacement
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Fill Valve Repair = http://youtu.be/IB0VHdhUR1s?hd=1
Fill Valve Part Overview = http://youtu.be/bNQFOwuUCKg?hd=1
To view the Fill Valve Replacement Playlist = http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=4A143A19D85596B2
Replacing the Fill Valve
Diagnostic
The Toilet Fill Valve controls the amount of water in the tank of the toilet. This assembly should be replaced if it begins to not shut off correctly, becomes damaged, or corroded. To minimize any disruptions in service, it is suggested that the Fill Valve be replaced every five years as part of regular toilet maintenance.
Parts
A new fill valve assembly can be purchased at hardware or plumbing supply stores. The package should include the Fill valve assembly, refill tube, lock nut and any gaskets.
Tools
The tools needed to replace the Fill Valve are a pair of rib joint pliers, an adjustable open-end wrench, and a small plastic bin.
Replacement
Begin the replacement of the toilet fill valve by removing the tank’s lid, turning off the water supply valve, and flushing the toilet.
If the toilet already has an existing Fill Valve, and the base is in good condition, then the fill valve may be quickly replaced by reaching to the base of the fill valve and pulling up the lock ring, removing the refill tub, and sliding the Fill Valve off of its base. The new Fill Valve is installed by simply removing the base that came with it and sliding it onto the existing base in the toilet. Reach behind the Fill Valve and snap the lock ring down into place. Then attach the refill tube to the overflow tube and adjust the new fill valve for optimal water level.
If the Fill Valve base in the toilet is not in good condition, then the entire unit will need to be replaced as follows.
With the tank empty, position a plastic bin to collect water under the water supply hose and unscrew the hose from the base of the tank, having any water drain into the plastic bin below. Now with an adjustable open-end wrench, or rib joint pliers, unscrew the lock nut located on the shank of the fill valve. With the nut removed the entire assembly can be pulled out of the tank. The old assembly should be placed into the plastic bin as it may continue to drain water.
With the old assembly removed, take the new unit and adjust the height to best suit the height of the tank and overflow tube, usually around 1-inch below the tank’s edge. Insert the threaded end into the hole where the previous assembly was removed. Position the new assembly and thread the lock nut by hand securing the tube upright.
Once hand tight, secure the nut a quarter turn further with the rib joint pliers to insure a watertight seal. Now re-attach the water supply hose to the fill valve’s shank. Place the fill valve’s refill hose into the overflow tube. The refill hose must not extend below the tank’s water line or water will constantly siphon from the tank.
Most fill valve kits should include a metal clip or angle adaptor that, when installed, will prevent the refill tube from going below the water line. Once in place, turn on the water-supply valve and the tank will begin to fill. Make any adjustments to the water level by sliding the adjustment clip, located on the fill valve, to change the height of the float-cup. The tank’s water level is best at about 1-inch below the top of the overflow tube located in the center of the toilet. Inspect the new connections to make sure that they are not leaking water, and flush the toilet to test the toilet’s function. Once in order, replace the tank’s lid to complete the project.